Bear Mountain Picnic Massacre (Original 5.8)

An excellent description is already published in Jay's Book.

Pitch 1 (5.7) - Climb starts at cairned slab. The belay stance is in an alcove on a narrow ledge. Rope-up below small tree and stay on slab left of gully to large tree with slings (1st belay) or pass this small tree, climb 10' more to a two-bolt anchor (no rings/chain, just two bolts/hangers.)

Pitch 2 (5.7 or 5.10) - From here you can continue left on 5.7 slab to a gear anchor (#2 camalot and a bigger nut work great) on a sloping, nice ledge at the base of wall (pass 2nd tree with slings - this tree is 61 meters from the starting ledge). The other choice (preferred) climbs up right from the first belay to a bolted 5.10 slab.

Pitch 3 (5.8) - The 3rd pitch is stellar. Bring adequate runners for slinging chicken heads. Three choices on the finish. The standard goes direct into the short steep cleft with a finger to hand sized cam protecting the final 5.8 moves. Other finishes go left on 5.7 unprotectable slab with wild exposure or right into the loose gully (5.5) to the flat top with a big tree with slings on it. One of the best 5.8 trad pitches anywhere. "The top pitch of the Five Eight Variant was pure magic, dramatis, steep and yet with superb holds" Sir Chris Bonnington.

Pitch 4 (5.8) - The original BMPM route ended at a bolted belay/rappel anchor at the top of pitch 3. But do yourself a favor and climb one more 40m pitch to the summit of the Questa Flatiron. Instead of stopping at the belay/rappel anchors at the top of pitch 3, continue up to the large tree with slings on it. From the big tree with slings, climb up a short slab with a finger crack to reach the ridge. Climb left along the ridge staying on the ridge proper or just to the left. Clip a single bolt protecting an airy, thin move to a huge, round hueco. Cruise great chicken heads to the summit. From the summit, do a 40' rap off a bolted anchor down into the gully behind the summit and walk back down to your packs at the base. See the "Descent" section below.

Approach as for Questa Dome but turn left and work way uphill about 50 ft. prior to finally reaching stream. Walk between boulders on faint climber trail to base of Legs (of El Oso).

Trailhead: N36°47.8597 W105° 32.8762

Standard rack, few extra runners for slingin' necks.