We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Eliminator

FA Paul Van Betten, Randy Marsh - 1983
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Despite the fact that one must pay the toll of a crappy slog up to this wall, Eliminator delivers some high quality rock climbing. Primarily a finger crack, there are occasional face holds as is typical of Red Rocks "crack climbing". It is a long pitch and has several cruxy sections but also some great rests.

The obvious right-leaning finger crack and best looking line on the cliff.

The belayer may wish to anchor in or tie-off to a tree before getting started. Climb up a low-angle face to the main wall, tie off shrubbery, and delicately fiddle in some overhead RP's. They seem OK, but the rock is the white, sugary sort. Perform a committing stand up move, and then pray the edge of the crack doesn't snap as you pad your feet up a little higher to reach your first solid gear placement. This is immediately followed by a hard crux. After this, expect alternating sections of finger jamming and good rests for about 80'. The last 30' of the route finds the varnish disappearing and the rock turning rather bad, but fortunately the climbing eases and limited pro is still available.

Belay at a fixed stopper anchor in the crack (consider bringing more tat and WD40 for the fixed 'biners).

This is a really great route but I'm going to stick my neck out and say that it is not the best finger crack in Red Rocks. That honor goes to Seduction Line.

Protection

2x Blue Alien or equivalent to 0.5 Camalot. 1x 0.5 Camalot to #2 Camalot. Full set of wires. Draws & slings. RP's and possibly a 000 C3 or small Ball Nut for the start. 80m cord (otherwise two ropes to get down).


Routes in Afterburner Wall


  1. 1
    Eliminator
    5.11d
    Trad