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Peak Mountain 3

Casual Corner

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Description

This is a nice short route, but Hubbel's guidebook doesn't even give it a star! It is one of the best routes I've done in the South St. Vrain (out of about 6).

The route is the right-facing dihedral on the left side of The Monkey Skull, and left of

Sunshine Dihedral

. This route faces west and is in the shade until about 1PM (in July). Tiptoe up the trail avoiding the poison ivy to the base of the route, where the easy slope funnels down to a narrow chute made of solid rock with a fallen dead tree in it.

The dihedral does not reach the ground, face climb 20' straight up to the crack, passing a small fir tree on your right. This section is runout but is only about 5.5. Move into the dihedral and follow it for about 60', ending at a large fir tree with slings. You can rap back to the base from here with one 50m rope.

Protection

Rack to 2".