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Peak Mountain 3

The Bewildering Minute

FA Neal Carrol
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fun, easy, and steepish climbing leads up to the 4th bolt where a great bouldery sequence awaits on the clean slab below the first roof. If you have very small fingers you will find the two shallow mono's usable and enjoyable. If your fingers are larger than normal, this sequence will become much more difficult. (I was able to find an alternative, but the mono sequence is way cooler!). Above the monos, cop a good stem rest in the shallow corner, and then blast through the steeps above with very big, great moves on pockets. Here awaits the redpoint crux. Next move a bit right, and try to get a good shake off the hand shelf with poor feet, and then commit to the final little bouldery section before clipping the chains. A great route!

Location

This route is the rightmost of the "cave" routes, beginning off the right side of a large boulder and climbing up overhanging moves on sinker pockets and edges for the first two bolts with gray Petzl hangers. Continue straight up at the 3rd bolt on gray Fixe Hangers. (The Petzl hangers continue up and right for "Empty Your Pockets" (12c), and yet another route branches right again off "Empty Your Pockets" at bolt 6 or so- its called "Bender" (12c). A 35m gym rope will get you down TBM:)

Protection

Well bolted- 9 bolts to chain anchors.