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Peak Mountain 3

Phee-nix

FA FTR: Charlie Fowler FHP: Mike Brooks
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This pretty little line is just uphill from the classic 5.8

Mr. Natural

. Cool but unprotected moves lead off the ground and gain the corner above. Some small cams in the corner ease the mind before a touch of unprotected 5.10- face climbing gains the ledge above. At the ledge, it's easy to link directly into "

Rough Roof

, .12b" (Eric Johnson is featured on this obscure steep classic in the film

"Front Range Freaks"

) for a long--by Eldo standards anyway--memorable pitch. The landing at the start of this climb is bad and the moves a bit cryptic, so without a few pads and a spotter,  toprope rehearsal's not a bad idea. If you link the start with "

Rough Roof

," you can create an anchor off some mid-size cams and wires to lower back to the ground, but someone will eventually have to clean the pitch on TR and walk off left on the huge ledge above. Linking into Rough Roof probably warrants 2 stars.

Protection

Small to mid-size cams.


Routes in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp


  1. 21
    Phee-nix
    5.12a
    Bouldering · Trad