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Peak Mountain 3

Road Runner

FA Floyd Hayes and Chris Cline, 20 October 2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1 has some decent climbing with solid protection but beware of some loose rocks. Pitch 2 is mostly scrambling with a short technical section. The climbing quality merits one star and a second star for the adventure factor.

Pitch 1 (5.8; 75'): Climb up a wide, right-slanting crack. Traverse left across a ledge below a large manzanita bush that blocks upward progress, scramble up and right on a talus-covered slope to the left of the manzanita and belay from boulders just above the manzanita. Rope drag at the top is severe.

Pitch 2 (5.4; 110'): Scramble up talus to a short cliff, climb an alcove on the right side of the cliff (5.4), and continue up an easy slab (class 3) to the summit. Belay from a 2-3" crack at the summit.

Descend by scrambling class 4 climber's left down the south end of the crag, then bushwhack toward the right, down the base of the west face, and then westward across the burned-out chaparral toward the road.

Location

The route begins from the road on the right side of the east face (see photo for the Looney Tunes area).

Protection

One set of cams. I used nine cams to protect pitch 1, and two cams to protect pitch 2.