- Edit (TBD)
Description
A stout little line on a granite inselberg in the forest. Originally I was hoping to boulder this, but the top crux is spooky.
Stick clip the first bolt to keep the rope clear from the initial crux.
Start on obvious underclings below the seam. Complete a technical V8 boulder problem to an excellent side-pull jug, clip your second clip and climb thuggy 11+/12a moves to the third bolt. If gaining the third clip is a challenge it is best to fit a 1 tricam in the seam between second and third bolts, or just suck it up and climb. The top and redpoint crux is a thin V6 to crimps to the a mantle top out, and the two-bolt anchor.
Bring draws for the top anchor (it doesn't have chains/clips). Climbing up the back of the tower provides access to the anchor if TR is needed.
Location
This route is located above Albany, Wy in the Cinnabar Park area.
From Laramie, follow Wyo 130 then Wyo 11 to Albany, WY. Continue up the mountain on FS 500. After ascending onto the mountain take a right onto FS 305 (Cinnabar Park Rd). This road is rough and requires high clearance. After approx. 2.5 miles a large boulder with an obvious prow is along the road on the left. Take the second right after that (approx 2.8 miles down Cinnabar Park Rd), and park at the obvious steel gate.
Walk the old logging road beyond the gate. Take the first fork left, then the next fork right. About a mile from where you parked, a large tower of a boulder will appear in the forest on the right side.
Protection
3 bolts and a bolt anchor
Routes in Albany Boulders (aka The Egg Forest)
- 2All Along the Watchtower5.13bSport