- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a fun diversion if you are in the area doing
Oh My Quad!
. It is probably best to toprope it, although it can be led if you are competent at the grade and are not likely to fall. It is blocky at the bottom, and you ascend near a large crack to get to a ledge below the crux arête above. You can place a #0.5 Camalot before the crux. You move left onto the arête using small layback holds. There are footholds when you need them, and it is helpful to flag your right foot in places. Above there are hidden hand holds when you need them. This is a fun climb if you are in the area even though it is short.
Location
This route is just to the right (west) of
Oh My Quad!
by about 5'. The hand crack to the left is obvious. Walk off from the top back to the Lookout Mountain Road.
Protection
Small cams and a sling to put around a horn near the bottom. You only need up to a #0.5 Camalot. Use the same anchor location as
Oh My Quad!
with a long extension over the bulging rock to the north.