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Peak Mountain 3

The Niche

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Description

On the northern outcrop of Stettner Rocks. At the south end of this outcrop, there are two small dihedrals, each about 5-6 feet deep. This route follows the right/north dihedral, next to the pedestal.

Work up the dihedral and into the niche. Reach or stem up to grab the edge to the left. From here there are two finishes. The 5.4/5.5 hand traverses straight left, around the corner and almost around the next corner again. Once you have a good foot, clamber up.

The other finish stems straight up the crack. Scum with your hip, and maybe even sit on the ledge! This is about 5.7, and would be the most obvious way to lead this.

Protection

Follow hand crack to "Niche" or small over hang. Then exit to the left, via small hand traverse. Medium pro for lead.