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Peak Mountain 3

Kid Calingula

FA Parrish Robbins, Tom Beck 4/88
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The first pitch of this climb is the best of the routes that cross Orange Flake. It starts in the same spot as Orange Flake, and uses the first bolt of that climb.

P1: Starting at the large pine tree, climb up to the first bolt on Orange Flake. From there climb almost straight up, past four more bolts (for a total of five bolts ). The rock is bomber and the climbing stays technical until the final slab to the anchor. There is no doubled bolt as described in some guidebooks. It looks as if the redundant bolt was filled when the bolts were replaced.

P2: From the Anchor move right and clip a cold shut. From there continue right and join Orange Flake.

P3: Finish on the last pitch of Orange Flake.

Location

Approach as for all the west face routes. Boulder hop up to the large pine tree easily visible on the Northeset side.

Protection

This route is basically a 1 pitch route that can be continued into Orange Flake. It shares an anchor with Gaucho Marx and Do Rein Me, and it best done as a single pitch that is easily rappelled (85'). It is the best and most consistent of the routes that cross the Orange Flake.