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Peak Mountain 3

Off The Grid

FA J. Seaver,S.Kimball
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a multipitch route ascending new territory on Lightning Rock's west face.

P1.Begin west of

Short Circuit

near the edge of the south face in the righthand of 2 discontinuous dihedrals. Do run out face (5.7R) past a small ledge with a juniper bush. Double sling a flake for pro then up to bolt (3/8"/2.25") at the foot of a white seam. Thin 5.9 finishes the seam, then continue (#2 Camalot) to the pillar top belay of

Short Circuit

.

P2. Logistically (rope management and viewing the leader), it is best to downclimb west and belay from a Fir in the gully. Climb a left-leaning crack on the vertical west face. Struggle up overhanging, red rock with the help of a wedged block and fight past an offwidth section. More steep and awkward crack climbing leads to a stance where its possible to pull right, around the ridge, to a good belay near

Short Circuit

.

P3. Finish with

that route

.

Pitch 2 is a bit dirty, and sports some crusty foot holds, but has good pro and great technical jamming through strenuous, multiple cruxes.

Protection

Bring a large selection to #5 Camalot.