- Edit (TBD)
Description
This forgotten route has an interesting history. Once an easier route named Operation Mindcrime, the bottom half of the route fell off in the Spring of 1991. Apparently, car sized rocks tumbled all the way to the road leaving a huge path of destruction along the hill side.
When the dust settled, the bottom was rebolted, and renamed The Anarchist. A scrappy, and varied route with some tough slab moves, cool limestone pockets, and a crux getting into a corner up high.
Begin with some powerful moves to a big pocket(might want to stick clip). Then dance up a tenuous slab with scant holds and feet to a nice set of pockets in a scoop. Follow decent pockets left, then back right towards the corner. A funky redpoint crux involving edges and palming gets you established in the corner where the difficulties ease up. Cruise up the corner for another bolt, then veer left onto the face for a few pumpy moves up a small corner before reaching the anchors.
Could be a nice route with some more traffic. For now, beware of loose rock and enjoy the adventure.
Location
Just right of Beeline. Starts below the large roof on the right side of the Gridwall.
Protection
Bolts and a two bolt anchor. Some of the bolts look pretty crusty so inspect them before blindly trusting them with your life.
Routes in Gridwall
- 10The Anarchist5.11dSport