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Peak Mountain 3

Beauty

FA James Garrett and Dominic Hari (from the Bernese Oberland) 22 June 2011 FFA: Quino Gonzales and JG, 4 July 2011
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Either climb the first pitch of Beast or after crossing the 2nd class grassy ledge, start 5m to the west (left) of the upper pitches (P2-P5) of Beast. Uniquely adventuresome and exhilarating climbing.

Pitch #1: Starts at the lowest toes of the Beast. Climb a long and fun pitch past 8 bolts and good placements to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 60m.

Scramble up and left to the rock just to the east (right) of a prominent roof. 30m.

Pitch #2: Ascend the spur featuring scoops and swirls of colorful rock landscape past 4 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 35m

Pitch #3: Surge straight up beautiful rock through some surrealistic bulges, wondrous placements, and 3 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.10a, 30m.

Pitch #4: Battle the Beast up a steep overlapping white quartz-like stripe past 6 bolts to a right facing dihedral under the roof which leads to a three-bolt belay. 5.11b, 25m.

3rd class through a fun knobby roof to a two-bolt belay at the top of the crag. Enjoy the views to the valley and upper Bells. 20m.

Location

Shares same first pitch with Beast. Although rappelling the route is possible, the walk off north to the western descent gully seems most prudent.

Protection

QDs and set of C3s and Camalots to #2. Set of Nuts.

Extra 0.4 to 0.5 optional.

Nutcraft and gear placement skills are necessary, but opportunities are abundant.


Routes in Bell's Beast