- Edit (TBD)
Description
This climb is located climber's right along the cliff from the Crankcase/Monster Truck area, but well before the Northwest prow area. It starts right off the trail at a short uphill section of pebbly scree, and is easily identifiable as the only climb that starts with 2 bolts.
Two bolts protect bouldery moves to a stance where you can place a #3 or slightly larger sized camalot. The rest of the climb is quality thin hands climbing, split by a good rest after a small easy roof.
You rack should include at least:
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1-2 x purple camalot or similar size
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2-3 x green camalots
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2 x black metolius or #2 friend
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3-5 red camalots (or substitute by working in a green metolius or gold camalot when possible)
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this is just a very rough suggestion!
A single 70m rope gets you back down, but not a 60m. Guide is incorrect regarding route length.
Protection
2 quickdraws. #3 or #4 camalot can protect moves above bolts. Steadily widens from 1" to 2.5" so bring purple camalots to gold camalots but expect red camalots to place better than gold. Crux is section demanding green camalots and #2 friends (aka black metolius)
Routes in 4X4
- 15Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start5.11Trad