The Bulgarian Guides Route

Moderate climbing and tricky gear placements with ground-fall potential for the first half make this a must-do for those confident at the grade and who want to experience a little excitement in climbing after all those boringly safe bolted routes. The moves are probably less than 5.9. The guide photo on MP for Cracked Wall shows this as 5.9 PG; I'm giving it an R if we define R as "a fall could be dangerous." Several placements are in awkward stances and are difficult placements with marginal gear. If you blow it in the first half, you are likely hitting the ground unless you're right at a piece and the gear holds!

I placed a pink and red tricam in a couple holes for the first 2 placements--i couldn't get anything else to fit after fiddling with offset brassies, but the tricams are bomber! Trend left a little bit at one point, passing a micro-roof feature to your right. After a few more moves, a crack opens up near halfway where u get a nice cam placement (C4 #.3-.75 range). A few more moves gets you to the only bolt on this route, then easier ground straight up to the Civilized Evil anchor.

Just right of Civilized Evil and Rat Race. Left of Dirty Rat's Crack. Look for a few nice lips/edges down low with chalk on them, and a couple of micro-roofs above. Start here.

micro to small gear, and some small-medium, quickdraws for gear and single bolt.