Snake Charmer

One of the newer routes in Darrington, and also one of the steepest and cleanest free routes to breach the somewhat obscure Witch Doctor Wall. Unlike the calf-burning slabs on the other side of the formation, this route is mostly gear protected and features plenty of steep cracks and flakes, though the hardest moves are still bolt protected.

The rock is solid and high quality, but the prevalence of trees all over the wall means the cracks and ledges tend to get buried in pine needles. The route and entire wall would really benefit from a little traffic - dirt and lichen also seem to think this route is pretty cool.

All belays are bolted and can be rapped with a single 70m rope. From the top of P2, rap straight down 35m to rap hangers out on the face, then make a short 15m rap to the ground just uphill from the start.

P1 - 5.9 40m - Climb the obvious left-leaning, mostly hand sized flake to a ledge. Traverse left to bolted anchor.

P2 - 5.10- 35m - More left leaning cracks to a short flare, then traverse left past a (maybe) superfluous bolt and up through a little munge to a small roof with another bolt.

P3 - 5.10 30m - Layback, jam and undercling the steep flake with a low crux. Some gear-protected face moves and one bolt to finish.

P4 - 5.11a 35m - Traverse the bolted rail and move up into a series of left-facing corners and cool steep cracks.

P5 - 5.10 35m - Move right up easy terrain and intermittent cracks to a series of six bolts arching up and left.

P6 - 5.10 15m - Climb up and right to steep cracks up bubbly rock, leading to the arete that borders the large roof at the top of the wall. Could theoretically be linked with P5, or bypassed via easy scrambling to the left. Rap station located at a notch climbers left, where the scramble bypass tops out.

The far left, uphill side of Witch Doctor Wall - a heavily vegetated break/gully is located to the left. P3/4 climb between a prominent white rock scar and huge bombay chimney (Orange Blossom Special, 5.9?). The first pitch is pretty obvious.

Doubles fingers to #3. Brought nuts, didn't use them. A tips sized cam could be used.