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Peak Mountain 3

Wet My Pants

FA DCuster, SRuff, RPropson; summer 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb the abyss. In general, if the climbing in the slot is hard or annoying, climb the wonderfully featured, orange face on either side.

P1: Climb the abyss; maybe wet your pants here. Step right to orange rock on the arete, either immediately on entering the abyss or below the bush. Above the bush, continue up, either in the crack/corner or on the orange face to the right. Final moves in the corner gain a stance on scalloped rock below the grey, double roofs. (160’)

P2, right option: Escape the belay via traversing out right at the roof’s right end; continue 25’ to the finger/thin hands crack that leads up and back left. Belay at a spacious stance below the next roof; the belay takes a #5 and #6 camalot (other gear options can be contrived). (60’)

P2, direct option: Climb the roof directly; #4/#5 camalots can be employed. Belay at a spacious stance below the next roof; the belay takes a #5 and #6 camalot (other gear options can be contrived). (40’)

P3, right option: Climb around the roof on good holds to its left; then head up and right, following the orange rock to the left of the abyss. Belay on spacious stance below a grey headwall on the right side of the abyss. (200’) P4, right option: Continue easily to the top.

P3, left option: Climb around the roof on good holds to its left; continue traversing left about 50’ until the angle above eases and continue up to a spacious ledge below a stripe/buttress of super-quality, orange rock. (100’) P4, left option: Up the orange stripe; at its top, angle up and right. The difficulty eases; scamper up and a little right to the summit.

Location

The all-too-obvious sundering of the center of the formation that leads directly to the top; it starts at the wide crack just above the clump of trees close to the base of the cliff.

Protection

Normal rack. Add gear to 4”-5” for direct roof variation