- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch 1-2: Climb any route from Scream Like a Boy to Seven Year Itch. Gunboat Diplomacy and Seven Year Itch are the best routes, in my opinion.
Pitch 3: Climb Silent Scream (5.9+), the first pitch of Fickle Finger of Fate (5.7), or Pillar of Fate (5.7)
Pitch 4 (the route, 5.10, 100'): From the bolted anchor, either move the belay to the left 25 feet or just climb that way until you are under 2 bolts on the vertical face above. Climb easy vegetated ledges to the first bolt. Clip the bolt and move up the sustained face past another bolt and gear placements until the angle and difficulty lessens leading to a bolted anchor.
Pitch 5 (5.10, 30'): Climb the steep boulder problem over the block above to the trees. Or go right around the overhanging stuff to a short section of 5.7. Most folks skip this pitch
Descent: If you do the last pitch, make a short rap off a tree to the double bolts atop pitch 4. From there, a 100' rap puts you at the double rings atop the first pitch of Fickle Finger of Fate. A long 160' rap from there puts you back on the ledge or rings atop Seven Year Itch. From a big tree or the rings, another 160' rap puts you on the ground.
Location
3 pitches up the Flakeview Wall. I recommend climbing Gunboat Diplomacy or Seven Year Itch. Bypass the rap rings, and continue to the pine ledge. Then climb the first pitch of Silent Scream (5.9+), Fickle Finger of Fate (5.7), or PIllar of Fate (5.7) to the rap rings. The route starts here.
Protection
Lots of quickdraws for the approach pitches. A varied rack depending on the approach route chosen. This pitch will use small cams. A second rope or tagline is needed to get down.
Routes in Flakeview Area
- 15Out Left5.10Trad