- Edit (TBD)
Description
Takes a long trek up the center of the Fatal Attraction Wall. The first three pitches and the first half of the 4th pitch are bolted sport, and a beautiful crack system finishes with some trad gear to the topout.
P1 (5.6 35m): Start on a grassy ledge at the base of a slab and trend right up the slab past two bolts, over a grassy ledge, and past four more bolts to a two bolt anchor.
P2 (5.7 18m): A shorter pitch, can be strung together with the next pitch if you're okay with having a little rope drag in a crux. Takes a route straight up the face and right of a small roof through chickenheads with four bolts. Step left for a two bolt anchor.
P3 (5.10c 25m): Move right off the anchor and then head up immediately into a crux. Continue up the bolt line avoiding a sucker ledge on your left, and pull through another minor crux before an easy slab takes you to the anchor. Eight bolts.
P4: (5.11a 37m): Step up from the anchor to the face and clip the first bolt, then unlock the traverse left and head up the face through two more bolts. A crux sequence takes you left to a crack system where you can slot a #.75 camalot or #1 link cam, and then head up and right past two more bolts and into a beautiful 5.7 crack system that will take you to a flavorful finish at a small roof. Five bolts.There is a new higher anchor on the ledge above the Pitch 4 belay. You should be able to rappel to this anchor with a single 70m rope. The route can now be done with a single 70m or a well-off is also possible, but long.
Location
Head up the lower portion of the Valley to the base of the Fatal Attraction Wall. This route starts at the middle of the base and heads up and slightly left of the features and grass in the center of the wall.
Protection
Pitches 1-3 are bolted sport. Pitch 4 will use a light trad rack from .3" to 2"