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Peak Mountain 3

Storming the Castle

FA Tony Schwartz, Chris Hirsch, Kyle Rott (Ground-up) 10/14
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Similar to the Naked Rib with it's exposed arête climbing. The first pitch isn't deserving of the four stars but the 45 meter 2nd pitch certainly is! Mixed climbing with some distanced bolts. Not for the 5.10-limit leader, but great for anyone looking for more of a mental challenge at this grade.

  1. 90' 5.10 Start up crack that fades away. Move up to bolts. Quite chossy below roof, but gets better over the lip. Clip some pitons, one bolt, small gear if you want it then to the anchors with a small stance.

  2. 140' 5.10 Take off onto the narrow, steepening rib with few bolts. Lots of sidepulls on excellent rock through the crux. Sling some horns on easier terrain and stay right to get back onto arête. Easy finish to a nice belay.

Location

This is the next rib formation to the right of the Naked Rib. Hike a short distance off the main trail to reach the start at the bottom of the gully that takes you to Crack of Earthly and Window on the West. Double rope rap.

Protection

Bolts Pins Small gear Bolted rap anchors with webbing