- Edit (TBD)
Description
Two and half stars, a really good climb! I think we approached it wrong so it took some extra effort to arrive at the base of this climb… we approach it from the right (east) side of the wall and had to scramble up the wall a bit… you could probably avoid this by approaching it from the left (west) side and navigate the fins to arrive at the base of this climb which is easily identifiable because there is a large oak tree which marks the beginning of this climb. Scramble your way on-top of the fin to the tree. Step across the fin and onto the main wall and almost squeeze up as if you’re doing a squeeze chimney through the branches to get the first bolt. I plugged a medium (either purp or green) cam as I made my way to the next bolt and then follow bolts through a water stain. Good climbing through grainy dishes and bolts further apart then you would like to the anchor 140 ft 5.9 bolts one med cam slings for a tie off From the anchor head up and right clipping a bolt and crossing grain surgery. Continue up and right following plates, they will disappear as the angle eases and then up into a patch of plates ( about here you will see a anchor on your right… for the rap) continue up low angle to a bolt and to the anchors 150 ft 5.7 Double Rope Rap Sole Man… careful where you place your rope on the rap there’s more than a few chicken heads up thereIf you wanna get to the summit pitches of entrance squeeze under the arch (just good fun) and head up towards the summit
Location
The brown water stain in the middle of the wall.. starts behind the fin with a large oak tree at the base
Protection
Rack of wires medium large plenty of slinging for tie-offs cam .5 - 3 draws