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Peak Mountain 3

Unknown II aka The Broken Wing

FA a drytooling climber
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The route directly under the left (looking up) bolts. Starts 5.7ish but kind of technical, getting up to the big ledge. Move a little right and then climb up the right side of the face on an obvious (and often chalked) sequence of juggy holds. Avoid straying into the middle of the face (hard! crummy rock!) or the chunky nose (boring!). Pumpy. Maybe the hardest move is 5.10, but 5.9 by BC standards.

Location

This route is between

Independent

and

Destroyer

  • left of the Destroyer roof, and on the right side of the reddish, sheer face.

Protection

Use the anchors at the top to setup a TR. There is a single bolt you can use to protect yourself while you set up an anchor on the two (exposed and hidden) bolts. I suppose you could lead it, but the placements would be shitty and scarce.


Routes in Rock Island I


  1. 2
    Unknown II aka The Broken Wing
    5.9+
    Tr