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Peak Mountain 3

Melted Soup

FA Brian Cabe & Jeff Baldwin 17 April 2011
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Popular as a single pitch route from the ground.Climb up just left of the flat face start of Pink.  Great rock and nice moves at around a 5.8 level makes for a nice single pitch.  Two bolt anchor to single 10mm (30kN rated) ring.Above the first pitch, take care with loose rock especially if there are people below.The second pitch climbs up good rock at the start.  Just past the third bolt, climb up blocky holds angling left across the shallow arete.  Up the wide-ish gully and transition over to the final narrow face just to the left, following the line of bolts and better rock.  Finish at the bottom of a flat face where the rock turns from gray to brownish red.  Two bolt anchor.  Longest pitch at around 80 feet.Third and shorter pitch climbs up and follows a short micro corner feature up left, then back up right.  Finish on easier ground past a break in the wall, then up to a shallow ledge traverse right, then up to the anchor.  Pitch is around 50 feet long.Fun climbing but be super careful past the first pitch with loose rock.  Recommended as a single pitch route at around the 5.8 level.

Location

Left of Pink starting on the more northerly aspect at the mouth of the short gully that holds the start of Boom Shakalaka.Between Boom Shakalaka and Pink.

Protection

Bolted sport route (1st pitch 8 bolts, 2nd 10, 3rd 7). Fixed belay/rappel anchors. Some anchors may have two bolts connected by chain to a single 10mm ring.