Squeeze Box

This is an easy-to-access desert tower aka Defecating Monk.

From the West entrance of the monument, past the entrance kiosk, drive 1 mile up the Rim Drive road, and park at the 1st hairpin curve. The uncapped tower is obvious. Hike down into the drainage and up to the base.

P1. The standard start starts up a crack system below and to the right of the chimney. There is an alternate 5.7+ start to the left. The crux moves are off the ground and unprotected. Then you get a #9 hex, #10 hex, #3 Friend,& #4 Friend. This is a short pitch. There is a drilled angle, #1 1/2 & #2 1/2 Friends are useful for belay.

Pitch 2: go inside and up  squeeze chimney, and exit left onto a sloping ledge that supposedly had/has optional anchors. Continue out on face moves on sloping shingles of loose Wingate to the summit. This tower has no cap rock. Climb it before it is gone. There is a 3 piece anchor.

Rappel 110 feet to base.

It gets one star for the adventure of the climb.

A single set of cams to #4 Friend and #9/10/11 hexes are useful. A big cam might be useful.