- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is truly a unique climb for the Gorge. Most will never make it to the base. I mean look at it, who wants to grovel up that ugly wide slot? On top of that, you have to hike all the way up that sandy trail. Who's got time for a 3 min hike? Though once at the base you think, can't be that bad, the first third is mostly big holds up the face on the right side of the chasm and look at those big fat bolts. No need to lug all those Valley Giants down here. Once past the initial third, the fun truly begins. Those accustomed to chimney climbing will find the next 30 feet or so uneventful and of course will deny any discomfort. Those not accustomed??? Well, what better way to accustom yourself to something new without the scary run-outs or having to lug a giant rack? Once through the initial slot, the chimney opens up, nice jugs appear, and the short lived discomfort ends - plus you take a nice rest on a giant chock stone. Then you look up and think WTF do I do here? Oh, I think you will figure it out.
A couple of side notes
-Be careful when moving up off the chock stone it is easy to move up to fast here and hit your head. A helmet is nice to have.
-It is awkward to clip the last bolt but most will be happy to clip it and don't worry as the 2nd to last bolt will be at your knee. Feel free to skip the last.
-I think most will find the finish tricky, it is a hard one to rate and there are harder 5.8s in Yosemite, but it is very well protected - unlike those in Yosemite.
Location
Left of W
in-Lose-or-Claw
Protection
9 bolts to Mussy hooks