- Edit (TBD)
Description
The 4-5 inch wide crack splitting the southwest face of Chimney Rock is an old-school blue-collar thrutch and a great example of 5.9 offwidth from the 1970s.
The most direct line from the ground climbs a chossy stembox to reach the first major ledge. Walk to the back of the ledge and enter the chimney - you have the option of taking a finger crack (left) or heaving over a large chockstone in the chimney (right). You can get a #3 cam below the first roof before things get wide. Longsleeves and tenacity highly recommended.
Just below the summit there are many options for a gear belay. Rappel (70m rope) from chains down southwest face.
Location
Obvious 4-inch offwidth splitting the southwest face of Chimney Rock. Approach via Chimney Rock Trail. 15-20 minutes
Protection
Doubles: 4 and 5 c4 camalot Singles: .5 to 3 c4 camalot (mostly for gear anchor) Couple TCUs if taking the finger crack
Routes in Chimney Rock
- 1West Tower - Southwest Face5.9Trad