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Peak Mountain 3

Thorazine

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Description

An adventure climb by Canyon standards. One move down low off a movable-but-not-going-anywhere chockstone. Top section protected by 3 permadraws all in good shape. Right below the first one is a nice ledge to lie down on.

About 4 feet right of the permadraw, sitting on the ledge, is a large orange pancake death block. Don't grab it to get onto the ledge. If you do, it will fall down and kill your belayer. Then it will hunt down and kill all your previous belayers for good measure. To avoid this, traverse towards the permadraw from below a bit before getting up on ledge. Sorry for spray, but better than death. I grabbed the block and felt it seriously rattle.

The anchors are a 1 closed 1 open shut that are quite rusty. Rather than lower off them, we left 2 nice neutrino biners up there. Cleaning draws on rappel would be a pain. Please leave them so you don't screw the next adventurous soul.

Location

Very long route to the right of Lithium. Look for the 3 large, sharp, detached (but bomber) flakes 20 feet up.

Protection

bolts and 3 permadraws to rusty cold and open shut. Permas looks pretty new as of 2020.