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Peak Mountain 3

YOHO and a bottle of Pie Crust

FA Climbers with poorly placed ambition
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Description

This route is the first of many....or maybe the last. Time will tell.P1 - Start off heading straight up the low angle rib heading for the bolt. When in doubt, follow the easiest way and you'll probably find another bolt. As of right now, there are only 4 bolts for 100 feet of climbing. Definitely not for a beginner leader. Better have a good head on your shoulders. Find a two bolt anchor on top of Poopy Platform beneath the upper headwall. (5.7 with mostly low 5th class movement. 4 bolts)P2 - Head directly above the anchor and follow 4 or 5 bolts up steeper, more solid rock. Much more fun than the first pitch. Changes to slab above the headwall. Head left at the top of the slab to the top of a small pinnacle where you'll find another two bolt anchor. (5.8-, 5 or 6 bolts)Walk off or Rappel the route (70m needed?). If rapping, be wary of pulling the ropes. Also, rap from the first anchor to the right and into the gulley. We chose to walk off.

Location

Find the start of this climb towards the left side of the buttress, immediately to the left of a large gulley/cleft left of the center of the buttress. Hiking up here sucks if head straight up from the wash. We recommend staying in the wash and coming in from the left side. See the approach map.

Protection

Quickdraws


Routes in Shooting Gallery Buttress


  1. 1
    YOHO and a bottle of Pie Crust
    5.8-
    Sport