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Peak Mountain 3

The Manatee

FA David Baltz, 1979
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

One of the taller lines at U-mound, though this would still barely qualify as a highball in many areas. Technical and insecure climbing to go along with a strong reputation still make this a desired tick.

There used to be an unstable plate about the size of a kitchen table that rocked back and forth in the landing area that has since migrated down the hill and settled.

Work up into the big underclings then ooze your way out to where you can grab the good hold over the lip with your left. Match briefly and reach up to a right crimp and match, now hoist your foot up over the lip onto the previous hold and some how reach out left to a hard to see sidepull. Work your way up crimpy side pulls until you can reach some rounded holds on top and start paddling.

This is problem H1.5 from the Mayer & Moret overview map. "The Manatee direct The top has a pair of bolts for the face problem above the undercling; nice powerful moves; the crux is getting your feet up on that face. Really high -- high enough you want several crash pads    and high confidence or, better, use a rope; feels like V3/V3+, but working    it without rope makes it feel a lot harder -- making the last moves on the rounded top is somewhere between exhilarating and terrifying...  Last time I was there, some idiot had chopped the bolts."

Location

The obvious west facing plate at the right end of the biggest boulder in the main cluster.

Protection

Pads and spotter. A few pads are nice to have as is pre-inspecting the top out.