Old School

Start on the middle ledge of the Main Wall, below the highly visible diagonal crack leading into the left corner of the roof block. Tiptoe up the starting slab, minding the lack of friction on the painted-over spraypaint - or bypassing it on either side. Go straight for the crack, or traverse up and right under the roof and back left from there. Wriggle and writhe through the roof notch and you're done.

The most dramatic established line at Alapocas.

In the middle of the main wall, starting on the ledge two thirds of the way up the face.

No pro, toprope only. A pair of good bolts is at the top or the wall above the route. A friendly cliffside tree can be slung for safety while setting the anchor.