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Peak Mountain 3

New Kids on the Block

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Description

This teenage heartthrob of the late 1980s made many a 13-year old girl scream.

This is a good warm-up for the harder climbs to the left, and from the ledge at the top, you can set topropes on the next 3 climbs to the left.

Crimp and sidepull your way up to a 2-bolt anchor on a big ledge. It's fun climbing, with a few great pocket holds that turn out to be even better than they first appear that allow you to shake out.

A 4 bolt extension to this route called Inchworm Arete continues up the arete above this ledge to another 2-bolt anchor (5.8). You can climb this as 2 pitches, or as one long pitch (a 60m rope is long enough to reach all the way up and lower back to the ground). This extension isn't shown in the RC:NM guidebook.

Location

The right-most route on Dirt Wall. Starts just left of a block.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor on a ledge (shared with Little Caterpillar). Another 4 bolts if continuing up Inchworm Arete.