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Peak Mountain 3

Southern Comfort

FA Andrew Traylor
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

As per the description for SoCo Right:

One of the region's more sought after hard lines. Unrelentingly hard, steep, and sick.

Begin as for Silverback but immediately trend left into the only part of the concave that is properly horizontal. Climb a v5/6 sequence through reinforced crimp plates, usually skipping the 4th draw, to gain the ledge, good rock, and the only good rest on the route. From here, a roundabout v5/6 boulder problem through crimps, huecos, pinches, and another skipped draw get you to a poor rest in a sharp flake. Try to get here fresh, and you've officially entered the ring with this monster. Leaving the flake, a v4 involving a pumpy match, a wicked pinch (well, not "man show" wicked") and another skipped draw or two deposit you at the last crux. If you are not substantially stronger than this route, prepare to get to know these moves very intimately. After clipping the second to last draw, begin a hard sequence going left into the crux of Word Up. Small holds culminate in a deadpoint requiring a frustrating degree of precision. Stick this, and you are rewarded with a rest before tackling the last easy section to the anchors. Top out for full value!

Location

Right of the Word. Starts on the same spike as silverback but follows the bolts to the left.

Protection

Bolts. Most people stick clip the first 2.