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Peak Mountain 3

Bag of Tricks

FA Joshua Horak & Shannon N. Davis, June 2014
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fun 3-pitch moderate trad route with solid rock, bolted anchors and good position.  This isn't my route, but Matt was kind enough to point it out.

P1 starts on a wide sloping ledge w anchor bolts about 25' off the ground. It goes up a broken crack and traverses right to the obvious crack with anchor bolts above a tree, ~130'. P2 is a hand/fist crack to another ledge w anchors, 90'. P3 steps right around the corner and follows the crack through 2 roofs to the top where there are more anchors, 135'.  This crack widens to a #4, but the angle drops off so I didn't use one.

Wind, flakes and length makes a rap' from the top of the route unadvisable. We walked west and down one tier, then traversed back east on an airy ramp to the rings at the top of P2. Then down to the P1 rings above the tree; then straight down 115' to a ledge where we could scramble down. (I suppose you could walk up to the anchors for the Northeast Shoulder route and do 3 raps.)

Matt told us to go down 2 tiers and traverse over to a different set of rap anchors and proceed straight down to the start of the route.  He has plans to streamline this in the future.

Location

If you visualize the South face in quarters, this route is 3/4ths uphill to the right.  There is an obvious giant vertical chimney system and this route is just to the left.  You can see the bolts next to the crack for the 2nd pitch, above a single tree.  The route starts down and left of those anchors on a ledge about 25 feet off the ground.

I'm not aware that this right-hand section has a sub-area name, but there are several routes on the wall as you walk uphill toward the South East Corner proper, most notably Elevator Shaft, which is farther right of the big chimney system mentioned above.

Protection

Standard rack to a #3 cam worked for me.


Routes in South East Corner


  1. 1
    Bag of Tricks
    5.8
    Trad