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Peak Mountain 3

Bushes of Baelzebub

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Description

This is the first, obvious, wide crack system to climber's right of

Crack of Anticipation (Classic Dihedral)

, about 30m and slightly uphill.

Climb the left side of a pillar, then hop right to the main system, and continue to bear right at all choices. 2 pitches; belay where convenient or at fixed anchors for the sport climb next to it (minor traverses required). The cruxes involve leaning, wide OW and pulling over a very, very loose block at bad fixed gear with wasps in the cracks.

Walk off south or rap with [70m] cord to chains 50' up and 25' climber's left of the route.

Protection

Bring a set of cams to #3 and a set of stoppers. 0.75-1.5" extra gear is useful, as is a second or third #2 Camalot. No fixed gear on the route. A long sling wraps a tree for a top anchor.