Roan Wall - Stage Right

Stage Right is a quality multi-pitch route that doesn’t get nearly the traffic it deserves. And given the tremendous expertise of the FA team and their investment of time and hardware, that is a real shame. The right side of Roan has a few more ledges and trees that make it slightly less stunning than the wide-open left side that hosts Center Stage. But Stage Right is a clever line with stacked pitches of quality face climbing to engage the 5.10 climber.

Stage Right shares the same access and approach pitches as Center Stage, described under that route. A bit before reaching Center Stage, traverse ~200’ right to a white slab between two obvious L-facing corners.

1. Ascend the pale slab, clipping 3 bolts (5.9), then angle left with some uniquely positive holds. As the slab tapers off, step right around the blind arete to reach the bolted anchor.

2. Up a bit, then right (Class 3) on the obvious ledge to belay at the base of the main slab. From here the route is fairly obvious, just follow the bolts.

3. Nice face pitch right and up past a 10a friction crux. 9 bolts.

4. Shortish pitch up a small corner (5.6) then right to belay. 4 bolts.

5. Sustained face pitch that steps right then up, weaving around small corners and features. 8 bolts, 10a.

6. Angle left for three bolts then step right across a shallow corner (10b). Ascend a bit right of the corner (photo) to a knobby section. 9 bolts, 10b.

7. Another full pitch of classic slabbing with crimpy holds. 8 bolts, 5.9.

8. The angle backs off for the unique final pitch. Move straight up to an overlap with a 4” crack (bolt above, so no big cam needed). Step over and move left past a small tree to a left-angling ramp/crack (awkward 5.8). A bit of low-angle face, then an easy off-width to the belay.

Scramble to the ridge-top, look north to the sprawling Squire Creek Walls and west to elegant Salish Peak. To descend, find a narrow ledge left and a little downward to the top of Center Stage. Anchors are bolted and the face is clean and open.

The Roan Wall is split down the middle by a prominent corner system, of which Stage Right ascends the heart of the rightward slab (see beta photo). The approach to Stage Right is identical to that for Center Stage, including the first few approach pitches to attain the main wall.

10-12 draws and a light rack of cams (small to 3”). Double 60 m ropes.