The 5.8 Crack by the Road

Yes, that's right. It's called the 5.8 Crack by the Road, but it is in fact 5.7. I can't explain it.

However this is a really fun climb. I think it's the most fun moderate route at this crag. Very few people bring trad gear to Rumney, so on a busy day I like to bring a small selection of gear, and I can get on all kinds of fun routes while the strict sporty folk stand in line for the classics.

What can I say? It's a crack. Follow it and have fun. Mostly hand sized crack with some face holds.

Just left of Romancing the Stone, there is a set of stairs. Go up the stairs and turn right, you are there.

Bring a standard rack. Ring bolt anchor.