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Peak Mountain 3

The Green Giant

FA Scott Matz & Cale Farnham
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Smearing, offwidth, handcrack, fingercrack, chimneying to a layback, this climb offers it all. Gear placements are tricky and some rock is loose.

P1 climbs the green, triangular-looking (left) dihedral up through two roofs, placements are solid in the crack (not on the face). Pull through a couple bulges with great hand and finger cracks, and set belay 110 feet up on an eagle ledge. I used the top of the buttress to rap my rope around for anchor.

P2 follows a ramp of hollow but solid flakes to the right then traverses left just under a face. Move left around the corner, and encounter another 30 feet of little roofs and ledges no harder than 5.9. This has great face and finger cracks on P2. Beware when climbing in this area, rockfall has potential.

Eds. Please do not climb here. This is on private property. The landowner has confirmed that they do not want anyone climbing here.

Location

This route is better seen heading downstream but lies acrossed the river 100 feet left of

White Dike

. On the arete feature of the river bend. Cross the river upsteam from the bend, climb the 4th class ledges up to the green dihedral. After P2, exit to climber's left through a notch to the 4th class gully to the west. Kinda tricky but a good sheep run.

Protection

Normal rack. Bring a lot of small, finger-size pieces, smaller size Hexes. Extras on #3 size. A #4 and #6 C4 were helpful, or a medium Bigbro. We used all 8 slings and a double sling for the 1st roof.