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Peak Mountain 3

Offwidths are beautiful

FA Craig Luebben, Sari Schmetterer, Earl Wiggins, Katy Cassidy, and George Hurley. 1988
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1. Fun and varied right facing offwidth. Stack, chicken wing & squeeze if you can up to a fixed pin then launch into a squeeze chimney that will squeeze you back and eventually force you to crush some more offwidth (blue big bros or a #9 valley giant helps make this less of a religious experience) #6 Camalots are good to have but useless up high. This has been called 5.10 but I would add a few +'s unless you are a 7 year old or Craig Luebben. 2 bolt belay with rap rings in chimney. 5.10

Pitch 2. Chimney between the pillar and the main wall. The Karl Kelly book says that there is "no worthwhile pro" and I would agree. Enjoy the spirit quest as this is a fun pitch. 5.8 X

Location

Route starts in the right facing corner on the north side of the tower

Protection

Pitch 1. Camalots:

2 #3's

1 new #4

1 #5

3 #6's

#9 valley giant or blue big bros

One quick draw for the piton 1/2 way

You could bring more wide gear but then it would be hard to make any upward progress.

Two bolt anchor with rap rings

Pitch 2.

nuts 1 set

.1

.2

.3

draws for nuts

2 angled pitons with webbing on main wall for anchor

We did two rappels using a single 70 meter rope.


Routes in Offwidths are beautiful


  1. 1
    Offwidths are beautiful
    5.10
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