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Peak Mountain 3

Curtain Call

FA Ron Olsen, Brenda Leach, and Yvonne D'Andrea, 10/29/07
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Curtain Call is a 2-pitch mixed route that starts just left of Local Hero. The first pitch has some steep face climbing and moderate slabs; the second pitch climbs a direct line up the Showtime arete.

Most likely, this will be the last new route on Tonnere Tower for the 2007 season. I would like to thank my first-ascent partners for their help in establishing all the fine routes on this crag. Their photos can be found in the

Curtain Call

album. Here is the Wikipedia definition of

Curtain Call.

Start at a steep face about 15' left of

Local Hero

.

P1: Climb up to to a small roof, step left, and continue up to a lower-angle slab. Climb the slab past a bolt, and step right to a short steep wall. Clip a second bolt and crank up right to another slab. Climb the slab and move up right to a corner capped by a roof. Clip a third bolt, and traverse left under the roof (crux). Climb steep cracks to a ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. 5.8, 90'.

Nice climbing at the beginning and end of the pitch, but the easy slabs in the middle drop the rating to one star.

P2: Step left from the anchor onto an arete. Climb straight up the arete, merging with

Showtime

after 40'. Follow Showtime to the top of the pinnacle. Stay left as much as possible for the best climbing line. You can also finish up on

Dutch Treat

, which climbs cracks in the center of the pinnacle, instead of staying left on Showtime. 5.8+, 120'.

This is a great pitch; the best pure trad pitch on the crag. Three stars.

Descent: If you have a 60m rope, rappel 95' down to the anchor on The B Boys (this anchor is about 20' above the first-pitch anchor on Curtain Call). Then rappel 100' down to the gully just above the start, and do an easy 20' downclimb.

If you have a 70m rope, rappel 115' down to the anchor atop the first pitch of Curtain Call, then rappel 110' down to the start.

Location

Start about 15' left of Local Hero at a short steep face.

Eds. the beta photos have been deleted by their submitter.

Protection

P1: 3 bolts and gear to a #3 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor.

P2: Gear to a #2 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor.