Black Peeler

This was the first route on the steep, southeast face of the

Black Peeler

. No bolts were placed on the first ascent; in fact, this route stayed bolt-free until the early 1980's. Although seldom done compared to the

Peeler Direct

, this natural line, which follows the principal weakness of the face, offers some great climbing. This route and especially the

Peeler Direct

became a rite of passage for all early aspiring aid climbers in the Wasatch...training ground for Yosemite.

P1

: Climb a short, clean flake (5.10 or C1) to a large ramp. Hand traverse left and follow cracks to a hanging belay underneath a long narrow roof...great pitch. (You can also belay at the hand traverse, 2 pins).

P2

: Traverse right underneath the roof...the crack is wide and thin (C2/3 or 5.10+) to a belay on a sloping ledge at 2 bolts.

P3

: Shuffle right to a thin aid crack (don't fall here) and ascend this beauty to another ramp. Belay at its end (C1 or C2).

P4

: Climb a short groove to a steep hand/fist crack. Jam or aid this to the top. (5.7 C2 or 5.10).

Rap bolts will be seen to the east. Two ropes are needed (160').

Use this ?Approach Map? to get you to the base. The approach is a little tough for the last few hundred feet.

Begin below and left of the prominent lower ramp.

Clean aid rack including wireds, offsets, cam hooks and sliders; mostly small stuff. A few big cams will also be needed.