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Peak Mountain 3

King Tubby

FA Peter Kamitses
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Formerly known as the Champ Project, this line climbs to the midpoint anchor of the full line (ending at the the massive roof before the exit boulder that may be V-eleventy or maybe just V12). This route is sustained with back to back to back boulder problems and marginal rest. An awesome power endurance route, where just about every move is consistently difficult with a few here and there that are particularly stinging.

Stick clip the first bolt. Climb the intro 15 feet at about 5.11+/12-. Catch a quick shake then enter into a shouldery ~v5/6. Make a tough clip then immediately do a four move ~v7/8. Another marginal shake leads immediately into an extended ~v8 boulder problem that culminates with either a huge deadpoint or a fickle and core intensive heelhook at head level. Without pausing, finish with another ~v5 to a slammer kneebar at the anchor.

Location

A king line up the middle of the wall. Starts right of B.I.B.L.E. on a clean, overhanging orange wall underneath a big capped roof at 60 ft

Protection

6 bolts and an anchor