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Peak Mountain 3

Spooling Voodoo

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Description

Conceivably try this one on a very cold morning with fingers taped and new shoe rubber...   and lots of chalk?Mount thin face by stepping off large boulder and climb past two bolts. From second flexy clip, transition face into right-angling seam that slightly widens to fingers and then eventually peters out. At the dwindle, ascend thin face between crack systems and then do a balancy traverse right into the large prominent groove on the southwest face of the dome. It's easy climbing to the end of the dihedral. There's two more bolts angling left on the final upper face. A good pro belay at the top of the groove is possible if one decides to split the climb into two pitches.

Location

Starts to the right of Third Shift on JRD's west face.

Protection

Single set of cams. Six bolts; four on route and two for belay at top. Single line rap from Third Shift's anchor on north side.