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Peak Mountain 3

Become The Sun

FA Evan Wisheropp
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Great climb summiting out the highest point at Cecilville. From the base, you can look up and see a significant overhanging pillar that looks almost insurmountable. Each pitch pulls through awesome overhangs and aretes. The route is well protected and an excellent introduction to multi-pitch at the grade. The first pitch also makes a super convenient 5.10b warm up for the other nearby routes.

P1. (5.10b) Slab to juggy overhang. At the 6th bolt, traverse left briefly to some hidden jugs, then climb right around the arête. Belay on a comfortable triangular ledge. 10 bolts, 85’.

P2. (5.10c) Scramble left along a ledge then pull a potent little bulge (find the jug). Then climb the right side of the arête to another triangular belay ledge. 6 bolts, 35’.

P3. (5.10d) Traverse up and left using several slings on steep and supper juggy orange stone. The crux comes with a towering finish. Stay direct on clean stone and throw for a jug. Can be linked with pitch two with extra slings. 10 bolts, 70’

P4. (5.10a) Run up a 5.0 slab, with an optional .75 cam. Clip the bolt above the slab with a sling and gun it up an overhaning arête. Finish standing on the summit. 8 bolts, 70’

Descent: Make four rappels. The first rappeller should clip a few draws on the way down the 3rd pitch to ensure you reach the next anchor.

Location

Take the left fork up the trail, and right as the trail hits the wall, head right and walk 40'.

Protection

10 draws. 3-4 slings.