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Peak Mountain 3

Heaven's a Lie

FA Marc Hansen
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the bolted line to the left of

Forsaken (5.11a)

. Like

Forsaken

, it can be done in one pitch, in which case a 70 m rope will be needed to lower the leader from the top anchor. Alternatively, fixed anchors on a large ledge halfway up can be used to divide the climb into 2 pitches.

The climb starts on an easy but fun face with varnished holds. The crux is gaining access to a thin crimpy face via some surprisingly awkward moves. The top of the climb is overhanging but with large holds.

Location

This is one of 3 excellent sport routes on the imposing cliff face right below the rapellers favorite anchoring spot (this would be the cliff face closest to the parking area along Hwy 18). From the parking area walk towards the right where there is a faint trail and a class 4 scramble to the bottom of the routes.

Protection

Bolted all the way.