East Crack

East Crack (also known as East Edge) is a fun thin crack through good rock (and not slick, like a lot of Boulder Canyon!). Nearly all of the crux jams are pin scars, so it didn't have that three star feel...never-the-less the overall rock quality makes it worth doing.

Upon reaching Cob Rock, the lowest feature is a 50 foot high buttress with a prominent wide crack, the Huston Crack. This, or the 5.10 finger crack just right, make good direct starts to East Crack. Otherwise, scramble 4th class up on the right or left side of the buttress, go up past some blocks, and set a belay near the left edge of the north face. The route begins up a shallow LF corner that leads up to the right end of a small roof or overlap. Rossiter and others call the corner runout, but the 5.9 is one move to a good hold, easily scoped and retreated from if necessary, and the RP placement is good. Turn the roof and head left into the crack, which becomes progressively harder (with a couple funky gear placements) until a thank-god fixed pin. Rappel from the ledge with blocks above, or continue up and right to the summit.

Bring RPs, stoppers, and small camming units--TCUs would probably have working better in the pin scars than my FCUs.