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Peak Mountain 3

Old Ladies Excitement

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Description

For unknown reasons, this route was never properly captured in previous guidebooks. I came across it in my research for Ed 4 and corrected the record.  In addition, its existence impacts descriptions for Dirty Old Man and Amazing Grace.

Start at the right (north) end of the Old Ladies Traverse Ledge, near the oak tree.

P1: Move up just a bit until you can traverse out right across the east face along a thin ledge system to the larger ledges above DIRTY OLD MAN and FROSTED FLAKE. There is a two-bolt anchor on a ledge here that is shared with these climbs. A large right-facing corner will be above. (5.3 PG, 40 ft.)

P2: Climb up some easy, but sparsely protected ground and gain the steep, narrow, right-facing corner. Follow this to the top and a two-bolt anchor. A #4 cam is helpful on this pitch. Beware of some loose rock near the top. (5.6 PG, 75 ft.)

Location

Start at the right (north) end of the Old Ladies Traverse Ledge.

Protection

The traversing pitch is a bit sparsely protected, but the climbing is quite easy. As well the start of P2 is a bit sparsely protected as well. I would normally call this PG terrain but MP only gives the PG13 option.