Rusty Corner

Rusty corner: an overlooked, red-headed step child among many stellar routes at Cliff Lake. I really doubt I'm the first to climb it, but it totally goes and should be documented on MP. I'm pretty sure it hasn't been "established" because there are no bolted anchors for it and you must build a gear anchor. That said, I think it's a great reason to put the route up because it makes for a good lead for beginner trad climbers learning to place gear and build a gear anchor with pro.

Rusty corner is a little dirty, hence the name, but I found no loose rocks or blocks on it, and there are ample places for lots of pro all along the route. You can circumnavigate the short roof section by going left or right, or you can go straight through it for a little added difficulty. I would say going directly through the roof is about 5.7-.

There is a bomber vertical crack up top to build an anchor. The vertical crack takes 3s, a 2, and I found a horizontal crack for a small nut or micros.

The routes starts in the obvious "rusty" looking corner/dihedral just to the right of butterface.

standard rack, gear anchor.