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Peak Mountain 3

Riptide

FA 2014 Tom Lane and Jay Harrison
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Layback or jam the crack to a large stance on the left. Step right onto the face and make a committing move up to another horizontal. Gear up - this is difficult, because the crack is well overhead and footholds are poor (as in, nonexistent). The original ascentionist obstinately maintains that climbers must dyno to the next horizontal - however, a tricky step right and up is substantially easier. A few more moves reach a stance below a steep headwall with a noticeable paucity of holds or pro...excepting the bolt, which protects an even-less hold-cluttered move to reach the two-bolt anchor.

Location

Currently (2014), this is the only route lying to the left of the approach trail's end. Look for a beautiful handcrack in a short dihedral. 30' up a long horizontal crack diverges from this formation.

Protection

Cams to 3"; double 3/4" to 1". There is a bolt 4' below the two-bolt anchor.