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Peak Mountain 3

Lancaster's Crack

FA Rick Lancaster & J. Gilman (1973)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climbs easy cracks and chimneys between ledges on the west face's path of least resistance. Extremely chossy, and runout on easy ground... the cracks are protectable but if you slip on the layer of talus you are in for trouble. The route sort of ends at the notch, but you can continue unprotected to either summit.

Downclimb the east gully (much easier than it looks) or rap off a bush if that isn't to your liking. Make sure you have a follower to clean the gear cause it would be difficult to descend the way you came.

Location

Begin in between two bushes in a cramped chimney which may be the technical crux.

Protection

A few small cams for the first two cracks. A #4 placed decently in the final chimney. Slings to extend pieces and a big cord/webbing to sling the horn at top for an anchor (the only reliable pro up there.)


Routes in Agathla Tower