- Edit (TBD)
Unknown Gill route variation - Javelin chimney
Description
I did this route by mistake. I was trying to do the Gill route, but transitioned to Spire 1 instead of Javelin when getting out of the Chimney. See page for Gill route on Javelin for approach and beginning of route.I ended up transitioning from the stemming chimney to the wrong spire (left (Spire 1) instead of right (Javelin). The transition was spooky off a slab foot and side pull with tiny gear a body length below. Then, had to pull a couple more balancey, exposed moves before I got a flared 1 and flared hand jam, then finally, a great 2.5 and the summit, which is actually the P2 belay for the standard spire 1 route.To descend, your partner will need to follow, and you either finish the last pitch of spire 1 to those anchors and do two 70m raps, or reverse p2 traverse of spire 1 and do one 70m rappel.
Location
See Gill route page on Javelin.
Protection
See Gill route for beginning of climb. Flared 1, Good 2.5, and rock horn anchor to finish.
Routes in Spire One
- 4Unknown Gill route variation - Javelin chimney5.7+Trad